Saturday 29 December 2012

Madrid’s Plaza Mayor: the heart of Habsburg borough



Madrid’s Plaza Mayor is the quintessential heart of Madrid de los Austrias, the most castizo (traditional) part of the city, built up during the Habsburg Dynasty. Walking here and around the adjacent streets, you might think you were in some anonymous Spanish village rather than a city with over three million inhabitants.
Habsburg borough, where Madrid’s Plaza Mayor is located, represents the historic center of the city which is closely linked to the cultural identity of the Spanish capital. It is far removed from the image of traffic jams, bustle and honking horns many people have of Madrid.

The best way to get to Madrid’s Plaza Mayor is getting off at Opera Metro Station (Lines 2 and 5), Sol Metro Station (Lines 1, 2 and 3) and Sol train Station.

The origins of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor

In the Middle Ages, what is now Madrid’s Plaza Mayor was the Plaza del Arrabal, a large asymmetrical space outside the city walls where all types of products were traded. As the little town grew increasingly urban, Philip II ordered construction of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor, a new square fit for the capital of an empire. The project was later set in motion by Philip III.

Madrid’s Plaza Mayor is inspired by the Monastery of El Escorial. Juan Gómez de Mora drew up plans for the area around the Casa de la Panadería, the initial heart of the square designed by Diego Sillero. The Casa de la Panadería is in traditional Madrid style: slate roof tiles and a façade with two towers topped by pinnacles.

Anyway, walls of the Casa de la Panadería don’t feature that typical mix of red and gray that we see all along Madrid’s Plaza Mayor and Habsburg borough. This is because last century the building was decorated with murals at the request of the City Council. The building of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor has served various functions, acting as the city bakery, the Royal Academy of Arts and the Royal Academy of History. It now houses the Madrid Tourist Board.

The other buildings of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor each had five floors, the porticos were made of wood and the square was not completely closed. The square suffered several fires, the worst of which occurred in 1790. The only building of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor salvaged was the Casa de la Panadería, which served as a model for the rebuilding carried out by Juan de Villanueva, another of Madrid’s great architects

Madrid’s Plaza Mayor: today and tomorrow

Madrid’s Plaza Mayor as it appears today differs from the appearance it had in the old days, and the current look is the result of this rebuilding. It is now closed, its buildings have three floors, the porticos are made of granite and the walls are plastered red. The roofs of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor are slate covered and the entrances are topped with big archs.

Throughout history, Madrid’s Plaza Mayor has hosted a variety of events: bullfights, crowded auto-da-fés during the Inquisition, the canonization of San Isidro and royal coronations, such as that of Philip III. Madrid’s Plaza Mayor currently hosts concerts, fairs and markets, such as the one held every Christmas.
In the center of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor stands a statue of Philip III on horseback. The political skills of this king were indifferent but he is remembered as the first king born in Madrid and a driving force behind the construction of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor. 

In the future, there will be some changes in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor. The Casa de la Carnicería, which is located right in front of the Casa de la Panadería, will host a luxury hotel. Many of the houses and apartments, which interiors are too old, will be rebuilt. The real-estate market will develop and prices will increase. Now, the average in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor is 3.000 euros per square meter.

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